First, open a bottle of cold beer and upturn it into a glass half-filled with water. Leave it there for a few minutes as you watch a slick of clear oil fall out of the bottle into the water.

When the surge turns into a trickle, and the bottle appears about a quarter emptier, now is the time to drink it—the beer, not the slick. But even after taking this approach, most seasoned drinkers won’t feel very satisfied. Indian beer is hardly made for the enthusiast.

Indian beers tend to fall into two categories: glycerine-laden mass-produced lagers and local heavy hitters—literally—like the 7% Haywards 5000 or the even stronger Knock out. Locals will tell you these are especially popular among depressed men and long-distance lorry drivers.

Arundeep Singla is on a mission to change this reality. The founder and managing director of The Brew Estate is an entrepreneur from Punjab who is obsessed with BrewDog, the Scottish craft brewer, and is determined to give Indians a taste of what they are missing. There’s no need to remove glycerin from his brews.

A young craft beer scene

Singla is currently patron of seven brew pubs in three north Indian states, though he is intent on a furious expansion across India. He plans to open a further 30-40 outlets in the next three years, mostly in India but some overseas as well.

The beer industry is predominately lager and strong beer. There was no flavour as such, no innovation for many decades. It is now starting to open up to craft beer, which is attracting youth and new consumers​,” Singla said.